For this modification I custom made 16 different (42 total) new parts. Some of the parts are slightly different replacements for existing parts and some are totaly new and are being added to the design. These parts affect the steering and suspension of the truck.

The only existing parts that I had to modify were the axle tubes. I had to add 3 holes tapped from both sides for the new axle shields.

Then I had to open up the axle steering pivot bore from 3/16 to 5/16 to accept the new precision flanged 660 bearing bronze bushings. I cut a fixture with some tapped holes and I locked the table and bored a tooling hole that was the same size as the existing bore. I then used a gage pin to align the part.

I then clamped all 4 parts one at a time and roughed the bore out with a drill.

To size the bore I used a criterion boring head with a carbide boring bar to get the bore within .0002" of nominal. I used a gage pin to verify the diameter of the new bore.

Once all 4 were bored I turned a 5/16" diameter pin and flipped the parts around to bore the other side inline. The bores were inline within .0005"!

To modify the Axle Tubes I had to take the Axles apart entirely, this picture shows the modified Tubes in place on the Pumpkins and Suspension Arms ready for the final assembly. You can also see the new electropolished steering arms with their slotted bronze bushings.

This picture shows all the new and old parts ready to be reassembled

This picture is a close up of the new steering Knuckles in place with the flanged 660 bearing bronze bushings. The new design allows for easy disassembly if needed because the pivot pins are held in place with setscrews instead of press fit. The main advantage here is that there is plenty of room for dirt to get in the steering and not affect performance.

To further dirt and sand proof the steering I added 4 stainless steel shields to each Axle to keep the roost and other debree away from the U-Joints and steering pivot. I EDMed the MCS logo on the Shields.

The front and rear Axles are identical except for the sway bar mounts on the rear Axle. These Axles are ready to go!

To sand proof the heart of my ©HYPER- GYMBAL suspension, I added a pair of Torlon 4301 plastic Sub-Sleeves that wraped around the Titanium Pivot Shaft to act as wipers to clear the dirt or sand out of the way. The new Stainless Steel Bottom Cover has sand grooves to ensure the suspension bottoms with the Sub-Sleeves plastic to metal contact with no sand in between.

This picture shows how the system works, the Axle can compress and articulate but canot move side to side. This suspension is very responsive in rough terraine at high speeds and this modification makes it even better!

In this picture you can see the Tranny and the steering cables sticking out of the bottom of the Chassis.

The Pivot Sleeve slips into the bottom of the Tranny housing and seals off the bottom of the tranny. The Sleeve is kept in exact position with two dowel pins.

Then the pre assembled Axles are placed into the Pivot Sleeve with the new Sub-Sleeves.

8 screws hold the New Bottom Plate in place and the whole suspension system along with it!

Then I attached the Steering Cables and Drive Lines and the under Chassis work is done.

I then Bolted the Servo Savers to the side of the Tranny housing and attached the Steering cables. I preset the steering and with the Servo Links in place, I locked the steering Cables in place.

The Motor Module is aligned with two dowel pins and the flanges that bolt to the outside of the tranny with 4 screws. The Two motors pinion gears mate perfectly with the main gear sticking out of the Tranny. This is a fixed center distance setup so there is no adjustment needed, to change ratios, you have to change both the pinions and the spur gear.

Once the Motor Module was in place, I connected the Shocks to their reservoirs and then to the Axles and Shock Mount Arms. This Completes the Connection of the Axles and suspension.

Then I added the Battery Packs and the Antenna Mast.

The Second to the last step is to Install the Roll Cage by locking the 8 setscrews that hold it in place.

All I did was add the tires and all of the sudden this thing looks like a truck again! Ive already run the new design Jr 4 runs for a total of 2 hours of runtime and it is just kickin ass! I think I finally nailed it! The Steering is much improved, the Suspension is super smooth, and the Tranny is rock solid. Check out the Action Pictures to see the first run on my new Track with Jrs new Modifications.